Written by: Divya Nadkarni
Nubra Valley
The Forbidden Kingdom !
This valley of flowers is perhaps the most inexplicably beautiful place you can ever dream of visiting. Once a trading route through the Karakoram ranges from Tibet to Turkistan, it was only recently opened to tourists. The road to the valley, inaccessible for most of the year, is wild and treacherous, and at the same time breathtaking – with its arresting view of the stately Karakoram Mountains.
There is only one road to Nubra valley: the road from Leh, through Khardungla pass, the world’s highest motorable road. At 18,380 feet above sea level, this road is under snow cover all through the year. As you drive at that dizzy height, with a sheer fall on one side, you’ll know what it’s like to be driving through the mountains that are among the world’s highest.
It is only when you cross this terrain that you arrive at the valley itself. Situated on the Nubra and Shyok rivers the landscape of the valley is strangely varied, as is the landscape in most of Ladakh. With monstrous peaks in excess of 6000 metres on either side, the landscape goes from dry, rocky and barren, to desert like sand dunes, to lush greenery near the rivers.
Orientation
Situated about 150 km north of Leh, Nubra is a high altitude valley (about 10,000 feet above sea level) on the Nubra and Shyok Rivers. Along the Nubra River lie the villages of Sumur, Tigher, Tirith and Panamik which are the main villages of the valley. The Shyok River meets Nubra from another direction and forms a valley that separates Ladakh and the Karakorum ranges. Diskit and Hundar are the main villages of this valley.
Weather
At that altitude, Nubra Valley is chilled nearly throughout the year. In winter however, it is inaccessible as the whole region lies under thick ice cover in the winter months – roads are snowed in and there is no way to travel to Nubra. Besides winters in Ladakh are biting cold with temperatures dipping to -30 degrees. Those are the months when there is a lull in tourist activity. In fact even locals move to warmer areas.
The best time to visit would be between June and August, when the average temperature is about 13 degrees.
Getting There/Route Information
Distances:
Leh – 150 km
Manali – 580 km approx
By Road
The only way to get to Nubra valley is by the road from Leh via Khardungla pass. To get there from any other city will require you to get to Leh first. The road is long, and treacherous with several dangerous parts – like a powerful stream of water running through the road and down into the valley, and the road is often strewn with rocks, or snowed in. But don’t let these deter you, for getting to Nubra Valley is a real adventure. Always take a professional driver with a licensed car.
By Air
The nearest airport is at Leh, 150 km away. There are regular flights there to and from Delhi, Jammu and Srinagar. Airlines that fly to and from these cities are Indian Airlines, Jet Airways and Air Deccan (now Kingfisher Red).
Pictures of Nubra Valley
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Things to See/ Places to Visit
There is a lot to do in this tranquil valley of flowers. Just going there and experiencing the sights and roughing it out in insulated tents, is an experience in itself. The nip in the air, the white sands, the snow caps, the green tumbling villages, the murmuring rivers, families of yaks and camels, the apricot orchards and the traditional Ladakhi meals served by a bonfire under the moonlight blend flawlessly to give you the most overwhelming experience you can imagine.
Diskit: Diskit is a busy little town, the administrative center of Nubra Valley that is located at the foot of a white-sand desert on the Shyok side of the valley. It has an ancient monastery that you must pay a visit to.
In addition, stroll around the quaint little shops in the town; enjoy that dizzy feeling when you see miles of white sands, and the cold feel of the sand. Don’t miss spotting the two humped Bactrian camels languidly trudging through the desert.
Hundar: Another village on the Shyok side of the valley, Hundar is historically important as it was once the capital of the Nubra Kingdom in the 17th Century. It provides a sudden change from the desert landscape of Diskit with its lush orchards of Apple, Peach and Apricots. It is one of those rare places where you can see all the elements of nature – snow, desert, greenery and water and in an eye view. Don’t miss the historic Chamba Gompa located there. It is one of the best places to stay during a visit to the Valley
Panamik: This is the last Indian settlement before the Tibet border, and the farthest that the permit allows you to go. Have a chat and find out more about the Indian soldiers that man the border. The hot springs on the outskirts of Panamik are a sizzling experience, not to be missed.
A long 6 hour trek from Panamik, which involves crossing the river at Hargam takes you to the 250 year old Ensa Monastery, located at a daring height, overlooking the valley on one side and the mountains on the other.
Between Panamik and Tegar (3 km from Panamik) is a sacred lake called ‘jheel’. Cars cannot reach right to it as it is behind a sand dune. From its banks one can see many divine reflections in the water. People believe that lucky few can even see their future in it.
Vital tourist Information
Since Nubra Valley is very close to the Tibet Border tourists require permits from the state government to visit. These permits are available at Leh. An advice to you is to take abundant photocopies of the permit as officials at every check-post keep one.
Whether you are driving down or being adventurous and walking or cycling, always make sure to consult a professional. As the terrain and climate in Ladakh can be both hostile and unpredictable it is best to go well prepared. And no one will be able to guide you better than the professional guides. If you want to be on the safe side, you can always get someone to accompany you.
Get acclimatized to the high altitude first. Spend a few days at Leh and then venture into the 8 hour drive to Nubra. Drink lots of water continuously to keep away those searing headaches that the altitude can cause. Visit your family doctor before taking the trip for an emergency dose of altitude sickness medicine.
In Ladakh, always carry heavy woolens, thermals et al. you don’t want to be caught unequipped by an abrupt change in weather. Don’t forget good trekking shoes, and several pairs of warm socks.
is there any accommodation to stay overnight in the valley