The Monasteries of Ladakh
What makes Ladakh the place it is, apart from its rugged moonscape, are the monasteries, or as the locals call them – gompas sprinkled over the countryside. Each monastery is unique and beautiful in its own right. They are all spectacular works of art, some particularly astonishing in their display of color, in their evocation of myth and legend and some in their humble poetic beauty. The murals, wood and stone carvings, the frescoes, paintings and statues bring alive the past before your eyes.
In a world of disharmony and chaos, the monasteries stand strong, enveloped by an aura of serenity that engulfs anyone who steps into that little unworldly spiritual haven. Here you can attend a traditional prayer service, take a lama’s blessings and have your future told. These monasteries are among Ladakh’s oldest surviving traditions and a must-visit for all those who wish to experience the quintessential Ladakh. They are an indispensable part of Ladakh and add a rich pictorial element to the oft barren landscape.
Most of the major Monasteries of Ladakh lie on the banks of River Indus.
Among these, the Lamayuru monastery is the oldest, and is believed to have once been the holy location of a pre-Buddhist religion. Situated about 127 km from Leh, it is one of largest monasteries of the region, and is home to nearly 150 monks. The shrines in the monastery are rich with exquisite wall paintings and murals. Shrouded in myth, it is believed that the Lamayuru valley was once a large lake. And true to Bodhisattva Madhyantaka’s prediction, an 11th century Buddhist scholar caused the lake to drain with his meditation, and built a monastery in its place; however, only one of the five buildings stands today. Every year there is a masked dance festival at the monastery, held on the 17th and 18th of the 5th Tibetan month, which has become quite popular among tourists over the years. Today the monastery belongs to the Red-Hat sect of Buddhism.
The Hemis Monastery is by far the biggest monastery in Ladakh, and its display of wall paintings and frescoes is equally spectacular. The monastery was built in 1630 by the first incarnation of Stagsang Raspa Nawang Gyatso. It is amazingly positioned inside a gorge by the mountainside. Once inside you’ll be swept away by the beauty and delicacy of the architecture and the centuries old frescoes. The Hemis Monastery boasts of the largest Thangka painting in the region which is over 12m in length – It is a rich intricate tapestry embellished with pearls and gold bordering. This Thangka is displayed to visitors only on a specific day of a particular year. The monastery hosts an annual festival which is celebrated in honor of Guru Padmasambhav. It is on this day, that the thangka is displayed once every 12 years. One of the other major attractions of the monastery is a sacred musk dance that is performed on the 9th and 10th days of the 5th month in the Tibetan calendar. The dance reveals a mythical story that has been passed on among Tibetans through generations.
Located 15 km to the south of Leh, the Stok Gompa was established in the 14th century by Lama Lhawang Lotus. It has a unique entrance containing murals depicting the guardians of the four directions. There is a Dukhang inside the monastery whose walls are adorned with beautiful paintings of the God of time, the Buddha and his disciples. The Dukhang also contains two thrones, the central one for the Dalai Lama and the one on the right for the main Lama of the Gompa. Outside the Dukhang is a small chapel which is known to be the oldest construction in the monastery. In addition to the central image of Tsong-kha-pa, the fore-father of the yellow-hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism, all the walls of the chapel are decorated with images of the Buddha and his mudras. The monastery also boasts of a library which has the complete set, all 108 volumes of the Buddha’s teachings.
About 8 km from Leh there is a large hill overlooking the Indus River atop which stands the Spituk monastery. It was founded in the 11th century when the elder brother of Lha Lama Changchub Od came to the area and started the Buddhist monastic community. However it was only three centuries later that Lama Lhawang Lotus revived the monastery and restored it to its old glory, introducing the stainless order of Tsongkhapa (Gelukpa) to whom the monastery belongs to this day. Although the central statue is of the Buddha, the monastery contains rich and varied images, paintings, frescoes and thangkas along with a collection of ancient Buddhist relics dating back to the inception of the monastery. There is also a sacred image of the Amitayus which is only about finger high in size. The Stok, Sankar and Saboo monasteries are subsidiaries of the Spituk monastery.
Situated 17 km from Leh, the Thiksey Monastery is one of the most strikingly beautiful monasteries of Ladakh. Although the monastery itself was founded in 1430, its foundations were laid much earlier. There are several sacred shrines and a number of exquisite paintings, Buddhist art and relics in the monastery, along with a magnificent pillar inscribed with the Buddha’s teachings. In the main prayer hall there is a 15m high statue of the Maitreya Buddha, the only one of its kind in all of Ladakh. There exists an ancient temple in the monastery in honor of Goddess Chenmo. Although it was regal structure in its time, it stands in ruins today.
The Shey Monastery is newer than most other monasteries, and the monastery building once served as a summer resort for Ladakh’s royal family. When the monastery was established, the Ladakhi prince donated a 12m high gold plated statue of Sakyamuni Buddha which is one of the main attractions of the monastery today. The statue is breathtaking, and is adorned by beautiful jewels. At the foot of the statue burns a lamp, whose flame stays alive for a whole year before it is replaced. In addition many astonishing paintings grace the upper storeys of the monastery.
The Alchi Gompa is the only monastery in Ladakh which is situated on flat lands by the bank of River Indus. One of Ladakh’s oldest monasteries, it was built in 1000 AD and shows a good deal of Kashmiri influence in its art work. Designed and constructed by artisans from Kashmir it is styled on traditional Kashmiri art. This is noticeable particularly in the murals and frescoes; perhaps this is what makes the Alchi Gompa different from all the other monasteries. There are three main temples among others inside the monastery which contain the images of the five Buddha families. The main image however is that of Vairocana Buddha who is considered to be the universal aspect of the historical Gautama Buddha.
